For discussion surround the building kayaks and similar small boats
HI guys,
I've cut out the panels for Nick's free S&G. years ago I build a Hybrid S&G hull and strip deck. So I'm going to build two more, a slightly larger one for me (deck height only) for better foot room. and leg room, and one for my daughter. I've got the panels cut, and they look pretty good to my eye.
At this point have one comment and one question.
The install of the KS System 4 'rope control' skeg is 'on hold' right now as the 'Optional Adapter Box' is back-ordered.
So that's my first bit of info: Unlike the KS cable control skeg 'kit' which had everything I needed for an install when I bought it a few years ago, the newer System 4 line control kit doesn't include the 'box' which goes inside the kayak and is required to make the control box waterproof.
Make sure you include it with your order!
On my 'to-Do' list for this week was fabricating a new glass/carbon/epoxy seat for my next kayak project (Bjorn Thomasson Njord).
While I've built 5 S&G boats, I know very little about how to varnish them; I just blindly did as I was told. That's no longer satisfactory. Lately I've been reading forums, etc, about the subject but I still have a couple unresolved questions. And I think the answers would be of interest to other builders.
I have modified my Avocet series of boats to fit my needs as I get older. The cockpits are longer for starters. I used to tune my boats for reasonably high speed now I am tuning them to 3.5 to 4.5 knots. To do that I have made my boats less full (I used to design very full boats keeping them full almost to the tips with gentle curves which gave me very good high speed efficiency) reducing bow width by about 2.5 inches at waterline and overall and stern width by about 1.2 inches. I made the boats about .5" wider at the widest point.
I recently purchased plans for a kayak. The plans call for building on an internal beam. I have built 8 kayaks on an external ("ladder") strongback, and exactly one on an internal beam, and I didn't like it. The form templates have a cutout marked for the beam, and no rocker measurements.
I think that I have a way to figure it out:
1. Find the form with the least distance between the beam cutout and the bottom edge, and mark it "0 rocker". Example: Form Nine, 16 mm=0 rocker
Is there a rule of thumb for spacing of the magnets in magnetic hatches? I have 3/4” x 1/8” magnets, the hatch is trapezoid shaped and pretty much flat. Thanks!
Tim
In the past I've used an epoxy produce, available locally, with carborundum in it. It is a bit like putting on very thick treacle but it does work. To apply, a small container of water and a well wetted finger melding the lumps along the keel. The area to be covered should be masked off and the rest of the hull covered with a plastic sheet. It is also a good idea to have a sheet on the floor too. All of this to stop leaving a white layer all over everything looking like a bad paint job.
Does the moderator ever remove posts or posters?
Take a couple of recent ones, trout moving and inflatable kayaks.
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mrsraihan is obviously blind to the words "Kayak Building" and is selling inflatables and SOT kayaks. Selling. She is blind to the word WOOD and keeps going on about plastic. Jim doesn't even mention kayaks.