My first two kayaks were build back in 1983. None of the kayaks I've built and paddled for 4 decades has ever had fibreglass on the bulkheads. They have never had any breaks or stressing either.
Support for feet is full foot pedals for steering. There is only one very easy to access adjustment needed for positioning. We were paddling kayaks in Samoa earlier this year with 4 difficult to get at adjustments needed and uncomfortable foot supports too.
For keeping water out, a bulkhead can be quite thin. I've found that something a bit thicker than the minimum is easier to handle when installing and provides a more confidence-inspiring footrest. For curved bulkheads (behind the seat) you can use a thin sheet and glass over once it is installed.
You should do a quick experiment with scraps, if possible. The aramid (Kevlar?) will be thicker and soak up more epoxy than glass, so 3 layers might be enough (glass-aramid-glass). With straight glass I'd probably use 4 layers. A bulkhead (where I value stiffness) is probably not the optimum place for Kevlar, but if you have a scrap piece, go ahead and use it.
It also depends on how you are doing the layup. With a mylar sheet underneath and peelply on top, I get a strong layup with one glossy surface.
Sand both sides for an inch or so around the edges before you fillet.
With a good fillet, it's quite difficult to push the bulkhead into the narrower part of the boat with your feet, so I wouldn't worry about reinforcement, much.
Angle the bulkhead if you are using for a footrest. Experiment to find the angle - probably 65-75 degrees or so..
Don't forget to put a breather hole in the middle of bulkheads.
My first two kayaks were…
My first two kayaks were build back in 1983. None of the kayaks I've built and paddled for 4 decades has ever had fibreglass on the bulkheads. They have never had any breaks or stressing either.
Support for feet is full foot pedals for steering. There is only one very easy to access adjustment needed for positioning. We were paddling kayaks in Samoa earlier this year with 4 difficult to get at adjustments needed and uncomfortable foot supports too.
Glass bulkheads
Shawn-
Are you making glass-only bulkheads, or glassing wood bulkheads?
What weight of glass cloth are you using?
Yes, Glass only bulkheads. …
Yes,
Glass only bulkheads.
I have a bit of leftover aramid (1 layer) that I thought would be good for it's resilience and flexibility, but otherwise 6oz. cloth
Wood is easier
If you have some thin plywood its much easier, just coat with epoxy for water-proofing
I have only made seats out of glass, I usually use 6 layers of 6 ounce cloth, to I would think at least 3 layers for a bulkhead
Glass bulkhead
For keeping water out, a bulkhead can be quite thin. I've found that something a bit thicker than the minimum is easier to handle when installing and provides a more confidence-inspiring footrest. For curved bulkheads (behind the seat) you can use a thin sheet and glass over once it is installed.
You should do a quick experiment with scraps, if possible. The aramid (Kevlar?) will be thicker and soak up more epoxy than glass, so 3 layers might be enough (glass-aramid-glass). With straight glass I'd probably use 4 layers. A bulkhead (where I value stiffness) is probably not the optimum place for Kevlar, but if you have a scrap piece, go ahead and use it.
It also depends on how you are doing the layup. With a mylar sheet underneath and peelply on top, I get a strong layup with one glossy surface.
Sand both sides for an inch or so around the edges before you fillet.
With a good fillet, it's quite difficult to push the bulkhead into the narrower part of the boat with your feet, so I wouldn't worry about reinforcement, much.
Angle the bulkhead if you are using for a footrest. Experiment to find the angle - probably 65-75 degrees or so..
Don't forget to put a breather hole in the middle of bulkheads.
Thanks John. just the…
Thanks John.
just the information I needed?