: 1. Is there a solvent, that could be used to clean either one of
: the components, or the mixed PU, off of eqpt. or hands? Or
: should I plan on discarding any mixing cups, stirrers etc.

I use some disposable equipment, and the rest is reusable plastic. I let it cure and peel the cured urethane off of the plastic.

: 2. I've worked with epoxy on four previous boats, always dispensed
: with mini-pumps. Looking at the two parts of this PU goop, I
: anticipate a messy time trying to pour and measure it for
: mixing. Has anyone used mini-pumps, or simple pump bottles, or
: squeeze bottles (like ketchup bottles at a diner)?

I just use regular mixing cups with measurements on them.

: 3. The densities of the two parts look similar, which makes me
: wonder if measuring it by [u]weight [/u]might be an option - I
: have an accurate digital scale. I wish there was more tech info
: available on this product! I'm using Corey's online
: instructions, and the Cunningham book as my guides.

It might work, but measuring volume was easy.

: 4. My workshop temperature is between 50 and 60 degrees. Do I need
: to change that before applying the PU?

That should be fine. Hotter cures faster, and this stuff already cures pretty quickly.

: 5. Should I apply any PU inside the kayak? I wasn't planning to.

No.

On tests I tried on polyester and cotton with other coatings, I found that they tore easier with coatings on both sides. I know it wasn't nylon with corey goop, but it is something to consider.

: 6. Should I use a bristle brush / foam brush to apply PU to areas
: that aren't squeegee-accessible, such as along the seam itself,
: or under the keel at bow and stern? I know it needs to be very
: thin coats.

I was able to just use the squeegee.

: If these questions have been answered elsewhere, I apologize.
: Thanks!