hi pete, some random thoughts
: I originally had the blade deployed with a bungee so that hitting, say, a
: submerged log would just kick the blade up without upsetting the boat.
: However, because it didn't deploy very well I switched to having a dacron
: line deploy the blade. The deployment problems I think arose from having a
: buoyant blade (wood with glass sheath) and a skeg box only wide enough to
: hold the blade, thus water had a hard time quickly backfilling the box-
: kind of like it was fighting some 'suction' force.
by any chance is the bungee horizontal, thereby pullin gthe slotted skeg up and jamming at the back? if so, would orienting the bungee downwards say 22.5deg(half the deployment) help keep in place?
: The blade 'hangs' from, or hooks onto, a dowel pivot which is sealed into the
: box, something similar to the CLC design, so the blade can be removed from
: the bottom of the box. The top of the box itself is open, but a rubber
: gasket and wood block on top seal it, mostly. The control lines run
: through the tight-fitting gasket and block to jam cleats behind the
: cockpit. It's not quite watertight yet, but I've been focusing on having a
: working design before I address that particular issue.
: For now, the top of the skeg box is a couple of inches above the normal
: waterline, so water does not simply pour into the rear compartment when I
: get into the boat. When I retract the blade, though, I think I push the
: water occupying the box out the top through the control line openings. I
: keep a fake chamois rag back there, and so far it takes all the water an
: all-day paddle allows to get in there.
: It may be quite a bit easier to have the box the whole depth of the boat, as
: the CLC design does, but I wanted to keep the deck clear of control lines
: and such if I could. A compromise may be in order, such as deck surface
: lines, but have them running through hard plastic tubing. Or have
: surface-mounted lines 'diving' through the deck inside tubing.
would it make any sense to add pces on top of the box and gasket it to the hatch bottom? then when you cinch down the hatch, you get the seal.
would it make any sense to exit the lines from the back of the box say thru dirlled holes thru the ctr of 1/2in diam dowels. say the dowels are 1 in long and stick out the back like 1in long nipples. then get out yr condoms and cut the ends off 2 of them put one end on each nipple and tape/clamp on. pull the condoms out and clamp to the lines. now have a water tight seal for the lines, that can move back and forth about 8ins or so. (that is how long yours are, no??)
or maybe those ribbed gaskets on some car throttle lines. i/m sure i/ve seen something like this.
so the idea is to let the gasket just seal and deal w/ the lines another way.
another real simple way would be to cut the top of the hatch to the box profile. it'll still seall the yak inside but leaves the box open. then do the lines on top, doesn't matter if it leaks. and if suction is an issue, there'll be none