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Re: why do waves come in sets anyway?

: If you watch the front wave of a wave train, it will over time become not the
: front wave.

My understanding from "Waves and Beaches" was that the energy in the front wave gets "used up" in the process of setting in motion the "flat" water ahead of it. If the energy in the wave train is traveling at 5 miles per hour, the leading edge of the wave train is actually traveling a bit slower than that. However, the wave train gets longer, because the water "behind" the wave train continues to oscillate after the wave train passes over it.

: Sets are simply the last brake-ups of a wave. You may have a wave train with
: a period of 1 mile several miles offshore that becomes 6,7,or 8 waves near
: shore - period of about 1/7 miles. These waves will be of different sizes
: but each wave offshore will become the "same 6,7, or 8 waves"
: near shore. (Differences happen because waves from different sources alter
: everthing abit.)

Because the wave is starting to "feel" the bottom, right? It is making the progression from a deep water wave to a shallow water wave. (Deep and shallow is all relative to the height of a wave). A 2" ripple is a deep water wave in 2' of water. A tsunami is obviously not a deep water wave in 2' of water!

I see "Wind Waves" is an out of print book--were you able to find it online, or have you had it awhile?

Shawn