Pardon the delay, I was waiting for the crappy photos taken with the waterproof disposable...
USN WWIII forecast 12'
5.5' high tide at about noon
Breezy West wind
Actual bouy readings were about 10' throughout the day
Arrrived at **** about 10:30 AM. Nothing but nice clean lines of 8" mush. Surfers were coming back from *** *** with nada so we stayed and George taught me to juggle as the tide came up. (Advice - never let your kid's see you juggle, you'll find that you suddenly have a new hobby...) Noticeable eddyline with whitecaps outside the bay. Big BIg BIG waves breaking on the shoals but nothing coming in but more 1' mush.
Finally, just before full high tide, the eddyline disappeared and waves started coming in. Now we have knee to waist mush but it's better than going home dry. I paddle out, catch a few waist high closeouts and hear George shout. Turn and face a nicely formed set of 5, shoulder to head high waves. Take every one right on the head trying to sprint outside and get into position. Ack... Only saving grace is that a shoulder high **** wave on the head is nothing compared to a shoulder high Westport wave on the head.
Wait and wait(and wait) then start catching more knee to waist mushy closeouts due to boredom. Of course as soon as I ride a reform almost all the way in to the beach, in comes another big set of six shoulder to head high waves. Again I take every one in the face. George is hooting and surfing with a fist in the air like some kind of crazy salute to the surf gods. Ack Ack...
Surf a few more waist high mushy closeouts as they turn to knee high mushy closeouts, then on to 8" mushy closeouts.
Elapsed time - 2 hours
Skunked but to be continued...