Kayak Building

Hey Guys,

Moving along with my Resolute build.  Working from KayakCraft (no kit).  Used redwood, poplar and walnut.  Done stripping, and getting ready to put the glass on the deck, and thinking ahead to the interior.  Given that this is my first kayak, I can use some help in fitting it out.  I am looking for a reasonably priced, and comfortable seat, and some foot braces.  Any suggestions and recommendations would be apprecaited.

Thanks,

Greg

Hi!

    I am in the process of closing the "football" on a Wee Lassie II canoe I am building. And I found myself in need of a longboard sanding device.  

    Since this is the first Strip-Built boat I have built I decided I did not want to spend a lot of $ on a longboard. (I am unsure if I wat to build more boats using this process.)  And I did not want to take the time to get the pieces and build one.

Yesterday I made a grievous error on my Waters Dancing Trillium 21.  My workspace is small, so I took the deck and hung it from the ceiling of the garage.  Seemed like a great solution to get it out of the way temporarily.  But I forgot to figure in the garage door opening.  The result is a full fracture on one side of the stern deck.  See photos.  EDIT:  Turns out I can't post pics, so here's a description:  The fracture is adjacent to the stern hatch opening, on one side only.  It is full thickness and the edges are separated, ie. completely broken.

When I try to upload an image, I get a message:

1 Error has been found 

and

The file could not be uploaded

Images are the usual 100-200kB size 640x480

It's the first time that's happened for me in a while, but I know other users have reported similar problems.

I've stripped just beyond the chine line on the Petrel Play and now want to mark it and cut it (as Nick does in his Episode 4 video "Stripping the Sides."  I have used the jig he shows to mark the outside of the sides according to the diagonal mark on the forms.  Given that I can't reach the diagonals on form 2 and 14, I'm not exactly sure where I should align the chine cut at the ends of the boat.  Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, Steven

Hi,

    I have been using a Robobevel tool for a few months now. I am building a Wee Lassie II canoe, which is a 13' 6" one solo canoe with lots of curves. 

    I find that once I mastered the use of the tool that it works very well. It is well made and the ergonomics as excellent. The little plane that I bought separately is a high-quality tool that performs well.

    Listed below are a few lessons I learned on how to be effective with the tool:

      Adjust the plane to take a fairly deep cut. The goal is to shape the strips not smooth them.

I have another question. What stains are you all using for your kayaks. I have been looking for a alcohol based stain ( Just like Nick) will a water based stain work as well?

Thanks

I am building a Petrel Play and fitting the sheer strip.  First, as you can see from the picture, the strip is not laying flush against the form (the last form before the stern inner stem).  I am using glue (not staples) and want to know if this looks right.  Do some of you bevel the forms to accomodate this?  Second, I am dry fitting the sheer strin using notched jigs  to hold them to the forms at the sheer line.  The strip bows out a little in between some of the forms.  Is it more important to make tight contact with each form or to get a fair curve by allowing the strip to slightly move

This is a bit off topic but I have learned more from this forum about using epoxy than any were else I figured I might get an answer here.

Here's my question, I am using staples to hold my strips to the forms. I tried holt glue but it would not hold. Can I remove the staples and due a scrapping of the haul and then reinforce the haul with tape as Nick did on one of his builds  before flipping the forms or should I just strip the entire kayak before I start scrapping and sanding. I am still trying out different things to see what works.  Thanks in advance