Strip Built

Hey Guys,

Moving along with my Resolute build.  Working from KayakCraft (no kit).  Used redwood, poplar and walnut.  Done stripping, and getting ready to put the glass on the deck, and thinking ahead to the interior.  Given that this is my first kayak, I can use some help in fitting it out.  I am looking for a reasonably priced, and comfortable seat, and some foot braces.  Any suggestions and recommendations would be apprecaited.

Thanks,

Greg

Hi!

    I am in the process of closing the "football" on a Wee Lassie II canoe I am building. And I found myself in need of a longboard sanding device.  

    Since this is the first Strip-Built boat I have built I decided I did not want to spend a lot of $ on a longboard. (I am unsure if I wat to build more boats using this process.)  And I did not want to take the time to get the pieces and build one.

I've stripped just beyond the chine line on the Petrel Play and now want to mark it and cut it (as Nick does in his Episode 4 video "Stripping the Sides."  I have used the jig he shows to mark the outside of the sides according to the diagonal mark on the forms.  Given that I can't reach the diagonals on form 2 and 14, I'm not exactly sure where I should align the chine cut at the ends of the boat.  Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, Steven

I have another question. What stains are you all using for your kayaks. I have been looking for a alcohol based stain ( Just like Nick) will a water based stain work as well?

Thanks

I am building a Petrel Play and fitting the sheer strip.  First, as you can see from the picture, the strip is not laying flush against the form (the last form before the stern inner stem).  I am using glue (not staples) and want to know if this looks right.  Do some of you bevel the forms to accomodate this?  Second, I am dry fitting the sheer strin using notched jigs  to hold them to the forms at the sheer line.  The strip bows out a little in between some of the forms.  Is it more important to make tight contact with each form or to get a fair curve by allowing the strip to slightly move

Here's my question, I am using staples to hold my strips to the forms. I tried holt glue but it would not hold. Can I remove the staples and due a scrapping of the haul and then reinforce the haul with tape as Nick did on one of his builds  before flipping the forms or should I just strip the entire kayak before I start scrapping and sanding. I am still trying out different things to see what works.  Thanks in advance

Is there a detailed list of the tools / supplies that Nick uses in his videos?  Specifically, I cannot find the shears that he uses to cut strips ends during the build.

Does anybody apply a seal coat of epoxy on the inner stems prior to stripping?  I understand that the strips cover them on the outside, but on the inside I could see some voids developing when trying to apply the glass in the tight stern and bow sections.    Or is this overkill?

Thanks.  I hope everyone enjoys their weekend.

Steven

Well ok, maybe fire isn't such a good thing around wooden boats.

Anyway, I'm stuck on the wrong side of The Pond until TPTB let us fly home again, but have pulled the trigger on the plans (and companion dvds) for a Laughing Loon, Georgian Bay.  I plan to build his & hers boats for my bride and I.

I'm sure Rob includes all or most of the info I need in the plans, but I won't see that until well, later.  My burning questions right now are;

Ok, I have a question. How many scarf joints are to many? I cut up a piece of Red Cedar 2x4x15 and out of that whole board I got maybe five  3/4 X3/16 strips. The board had a couple of nots that fractured during the milling process. I can forget about any type of grain pattern and spend a day or two Scarfing joints or should I just scrap that piece and start over.  Did I mention I am building the 18 ft guillemot L