Slow Week

Submitted byGeorge G onSun, 07/19/2020 - 13:13
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Kayak Building

I am ready for the seal coat on my Frej. After removing all the staples the shear strip stands proud of the forms by +/- 3/32". Forms are 1/2"mdf, am planning on trying hot glue to hold the shear in place for laminating. If anyone has any information other ideas that would help it would be greatly appreciated.

George

JohnAbercrombie

Sun, 07/19/2020 - 19:43

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This is the hull outside? Coming away from all the forms? Or just a couple?

I don't like putting hot glue on my boats, especially on raw wood. If I were desperate, I'd hot glue blocks to the forms and the strips (put a 3/4" x 3/4" block 'in the corner' between the form and the hull.

Do you use 'spacer sticks' to hold the hull shape when the molds are removed?

I use strip pieces, with a couple of slots (slot width=strip thickness + a mm or so) cut half way across the width. Distance between slots = beam at that station. One spacer for each station. Those 'spacers' can pull in (or push out) the hull to the correct width.

I'd just go ahead and glass the outside of the hull, not worrying about small gaps. Glass the inside and then put the spacer sticks in place. It takes a few days for the epoxy to harden enough to really lock things in place.

Yes this is the outside hull, still sitting on the molds all staples removed. Yes all molds. No spacers as I have been sanding and fairing the hull, had not planned on using spacers until the interior is glassed. After glassing do you still glue a strip near the shear on the exterior to help control the shape until the deck is ready? I believe you mentioned this earlier. 

While working on the interior I will replace the molds between work sessions possibly with spacers if necessary. What are you using to hold the molds in place while building the deck?

JohnAbercrombie

Mon, 07/20/2020 - 00:33

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After glassing do you still glue a strip near the shear on the exterior to help control the shape until the deck is ready? I believe you mentioned this earlier. 

I haven't done that on the last couple of builds (Njord, Panthera) .

What are you using to hold the molds in place while building the deck?

In the past I've put the molds back in to the hull after glassing the inside - usually driving a staple at the sheer (through cardboard or similar spacer) and using a blob of hot melt glue to tack the mold at the keel.

On the most recent build (Panthera 507) I was confident that the humidity levels would stay constant and I was working pretty steadily, so I stripped the hull,  and  glassed the outside. Put tape on hull edge to prevent gluing the deck to the hull, stripped the deck and glassed it. Then I removed the deck and pulled the molds. Then glassed the insides of hull and deck  - using spacers, and then taping the hull and deck together for overnights while I worked on the deck recesses.

I do glue 'teeth' (small pieces of strip) on the hull and deck edges to help align the edges for taping and adding the internal seam tape. Knock and grind them off once the hull and deck are joined with the inside glass tape.

It all seemed to work out OK.

Each build seems a bit different, and it's interesting to 'reinvent the wheel' a bit each time. :)

 

It would be a lot easier to explain with pictures!!!  :(