Kayak Building

I have just imported a kit set for a strip built Night Heron into New Zealand. In the kit is 1016 feet of  three different types of wood. I am thinking about how I use the strips. Can anybody tell me whether there is enough to complete the hull in one type of wood ie 677 feet?

Kiwi

A good friend built a nice cedar stripped kayak back in the late 90's and he's only used it a handful of times. When not it use, it's stored in his garage which has no windows. He's moving now, and has offered it to me for sale. I know that UV can degrade epoxy and glass over time, but if a kayak has been stored out of the sun are there any concerns with buying a 20 year old strip-built kayak?

Thanks!

Thinkin' of a new project.

I've always liked the Cunningham Sea Kayaker S&G ... got the plans ages ago ... a couple of pages full of offsets. I wanna scale up the beam. So ... how do I do it?

One idea ... say I wanna add 2 inches to the max beam. This method assumes the angle of the side panel relative to the bottom panel is unchanged.

Bottom panel: Add 1 inch to the offset at the max width of the bottom panel ... take that number and use it to ratio the other bottom panel offsets.

Hello. I am building my second kayak using Nicks books. I built the guillemot from the last book and it came out great despite it being my first boat and not having taken any classes. This time around, I am building the Petrel from Building Strip Planked Boats. I am taking care to do things correctly and without haste. I am trying to figure out how to set the angle for the sheer strip. I understand the rolling bevel and all of that. I just cant figure out how to set the angle.

Hi Everyone, 

Building a folder, for the most part according to Tom Yost (Yoswerks) instructions.  On the site PVC is recommended for the skin; and the cross-sections/stations are somewhat concaved (1/2"-3/4"). 

I have nylon material available to me, so my question is this: I understand nylon expands\loosens in water, so would it make sense to leave the cross-sections straight without concaving them or concaving them less than with a PVC skin, or are the concaves in the cross sections advisable also with a nylon skin? 

Thanks!

I've just pulled stations out of a Petrel and have a strong back available to anyone in the GTA who wants it. Its a box beam out of 3/4 plywood.

I'm just back from Maine where my friend Gerry and I were scouting out venues for an event we are putting on in September. The Schoodic Sea Kayak Retreat is an occasion to get out on some spectacular waters in sea kayaks (both wood and otherwise). 

I’m getting close to the end of my Guillemot build and had another problem pop up this weekend. I am using magnets to hold the hatch covers in place like Rob Macks describes in his book and videos. I had to heat one area to loosen the epoxy to correct the orientation of a magnet in the cover ( I’m not sure how I managed to screw that up). Once I got that taken care of and put the cover in place, I realized that the shape of the forward hatch cover does not match the shape of the deck.  The starboard sides sits very close to flush with the deck while the port side is over 1/4” high.

This week I combined boating and gardening by planting an old boat frame in my garden. In it's next life, it will become a bean trellis. I put together a video of stills that I took while making the boat and put it on the build pages.

http://paddleandoar.com/notebook/phoenix/index.php

This is my first design using the Kayak Foundry program.  While thinking up a name "birds" got disqualified, and I considered some of my favorite place names- Selden Island? Bluff Point? Nahhh....  I thought of naming it after some unremarkable forage fish, like "Alewife", but then I looked up Fish Names on Wikipedia, and there it was-the most hilarious & ridiculous name for a fish ever- The Sarcastic Fringehead. Its real, look it up!  When I quit laughing (and wondering how a fish could be sarcastic?), my mind was made up.