The retractable skeg is better for a couple of reasons: 1. Used to keep one in a straight line without having to make corrections all

time like a rudder, it gets annoying after a while. 2. Your foot pegs remain in the same position so for leaned turns, and rolls

feet are in the right position and can be used without pegs moving. 3. The skeg is lighter. 4. It is easy to make yourself

Finally, it would be easier to install before the deck goes on.

> A retractable skeg would be like a hinged centerboard ( or daggerboard) on
> a small sailboat. It would pivot at the front and be pulled up into a
> well, jsut like a centerboard. Again, it would mount on the centerline.
> Like other skegs it would mount toward the back of the boat. There used to
> be some pictures on this board of one that someone built. Might be worth
> the time to try and hunt for them.

> If you look at designs for wooden rowboats and dories you'll see a lot ot
> skegs. I was never sure it these were for helping the boats go in a
> straigh line, or for protection against rocky beach landings. They seem to
> work for both.

> A retractable skeg would give no protection from rocks when it is
> retracted, of course.

> For aiding in steering in a straight line a rudder is more adjustable, and
> more involved to make and install. A skeg is simpler, but fixed. Making a
> retractable skeg involves all the difficulties of making a rudder, and
> gives you only the limited versatility of a plain skeg. Seems like a lot
> of work to me. In most cases I'd go with a rudder instead of a skeg. The
> exceptions would be where the lines of the craft would be ruined by adding
> a rudder. Then I'd think about putting someting on that would be
> completely underwater, and out of sight: An interior retractable rudder, a
> retractable skeg, a plain skeg, or nothing at all.

> My suggestion: Build the boat first without any such things. If you need
> them later you`ll have all the skills you need to install one. And if it
> doesn't work the way you want, you'll have all the skills you need to
> remove it and patch the holes.

> Hope these ideas help.

> Paul Jacobson