> Second question first. You can use any camera, from a basic disposable on
> up. I'd suggest you get one with a flash if you go the disposable route.
> Your photofinisher should be able to get you digital versions of your pix
> of a floppy disk for a small fee. If not, Kinkos, or a friend with a
> scanner can do the conversion from your prints.

> After that you post the digital versions to the internet. Several sites
> offer free webpages. Sign up online for one and follow their instructions
> on how to post your pictures. If it gets confusing ask back here for more
> help. If it gets too techie and off topic I'm sure someone will assist
> through e-mail.

> As for your first item, I have a rather basic question: Do the
> instructions for your boat specifically say that the hull must be
> fiberglassed? Many stitch and glue designs are sealed with epoxy resin,
> but NOT glassed. Some are glassed only on the outside for the purpose of
> protecting the wood against scratches and dings. This may be optional. If
> so, your only use of fiberglass materials is in the seams. You'll create a
> fillet from filled resin and cover that with a fiberglass fabric woven
> into a 2 or 3 inch wide tape, and some unfilled resin. Alternately, you
> can cut strips that wide from fiberglass cloth.

> Some boats call for very thin and flexible plywood which needs
> reinforcement, and gets that additional strength by being covered with
> glass cloth. Other boats are designed to be built with slightly heavier
> panels which are strong enough on their own. These types of designs have
> been built for decades, and many last quite a long time even though they
> are covered with nothing more than a few coats of paint.

> Older wooden boats have so frequently been `restored' by simply covering
> the outside of the hull with a waterproof barrier made from a single layer
> of glass cloth and resin that some designers now call for that as part of
> the original design -- and some don't ! Exterior glass may be totally
> optional. Check those instructions carefully before you jump to buy
> anything.

> If your plans do not call for covering things with a layer of glass cloth
> then you won't need as much resin.

> By the way, in the note on estimating materials, I forgot this was stitch
> and glue. You'll need to see if the seams are covered with one or two
> layers of glass tape, and how wide of tape is called for. Frequently two
> widths are used. You'll need to figure the length of all the seams (which
> may be slightly longer than the length of the boat, as they are curved)
> and double it (inside and outside) to get the length you need for ordering
> the tape. Get an extra 2 or 3 yards.

> If you're economizing to the max, consider polyester based resins instead
> of epoxy. You can also get a thicker polyester product that can be used as
> a filleting mixture (see the ClarkCraft price list).

> Hope this helps.

> Paul G. Jacobson

Thanks Paul, Yeh, the plans only call for tape and resin, but, gives the option of the glass coat inside and out. Since I'm using this boat for practice to bring my skills up to speed, I want to try it all, as I will be doing with the kayak later on. I will probably go with the Epoxy resins also, for the durability. I've written down all the "stuff" I need for this canoe and have it ready to order as soon as I get off work this evening. The photo info is greatly appreciated, and I've heard of the Kinko's option somewhere. I will try that, as I've heard it saves a few steps in the process, and as I'm as new to this contraption as I am to boats, It's easier to let the other fella do it the first time. Well, it's time to leave for work :( so, I'd best get to it. Thanks again for the help. More later, Rehd