Suggest you make an effort to find an 18' board for strips for the long sector of your design to avoid the "spotchiness" created not by the joints but by the visual effect of the inevitable grain change which occurs.

Lacking full lenghth capability, assuming it is clear, I would go with your white cedar option.

>

> Thanks so much for the nice response to my message. At your suggestion,
> I was able to find boards at Michigan Lumber in Flint. A 6" board
> is $1.40/lin ft. This works out to be $2.80/bdft. More than your cost,
> but I am comparing to Public Lumber (Detroit) price of $4.80/bdft.
> That's for select or better grade.

> I am a woodworker and have a fairly equipped shop. Not at Norm's
> standards but then I paid for my tools! I most always buy rough lumber
> and mill my own unless it's a big project (50bdft or more) and then
> I have the lumber S3S to 13/16.

> It sounds like you're an experienced stripper (boats that is!).
> The canoe I'm building is a Bob's special 16'. I need 17'+ boards
> for full length strips and have only found 16' boards. I thought of
> scarf joining. Is this what is normally done, or are builders simply
> butt joining the strips? The other disappointing this is the appearance
> of the joint. Or maybe it won't be a problem...? My boat building
> experience has been 3 CLC kayaks which use stitch and glue joinery.
>

> On last question; If I am going to have a joint, would I be just
> as well off with white cedar and 10' boards? What do you think?

> Thanks again, Brad

>