I would also think a bandsaw hard to work with because of the very nature of a bandsaw. The blade walking and turning and doing things bandsaws are so usefull for in normall application. As well lack of tracking. It's a wonderfull tool, but not well suited for making precise long rips, imo.

I'd like to point out that a thick circular blade, such as my carbide tipped one, while consuming more wood is also more forgiving. Especially with carbide teeth extending beyond the blade disc. An important consideration in particular to woodworkers with less skill then you. A catagory that would solidly include me. This type of blade will simply cut without as much inclination to warping or kicking. I don't know that it means more or less screwed up pieces of wood strip, but it does mean less chance of operator injury. Again, imo.

For the record, and for info, I'll also note that I had surprizingly little difficulty working with 13' pieces and a home made table saw (the workmate and upsidedown circular saw). I have rollers, but had no need to use them. Nor did I need a splitter guide behind the sawblade. Tracking was no problem, as with my eyes and the fingerboards I was able to keep the piece solidly and squarely against the fence. Breakage of the cut pieces was no problem either. They simply flexed downward in a nice arc. I did use my woodpile to drape the cut pieces over at about 8', otherwise they would touch the ground and prevent me from continuing my cutting (working outside, jam in the dirt). It's not that I'm recomending this technique, but it did work surprisingly well, and with reasonable precautions (safety glasses, fingerboards, don't stand at the end of the board, etc), I believe it to be about as safe as any other power tool operation.

And yes, read and heed the safety precautions. If you've doubts, don't do it! Whatever it is. Especially with circular saws of any type.

Sincerely, NPenney, who learned about tablesaw kickback with some fractured ribs.