I havent tried this, but maybe I will tonight. What about the 1:1 epoxies that cure full in 5 minutes? You could clamp, and then remove the clamp when you get to the other end of the strip. I've used the stuff to repair ceramics, and I can hold it still long enough to cure. Some of these dont even require mixing, just squirt it out of the twin syringes it comes in.

> I've used CA for some difficult areas but have some reservations.

> I've used it on very short (6 - 8 in), very compound curvy strips that I
> just couldn't clamp in any normal way. I would steam the life outa it,
> curve it in place by hand and much tape, and then work along the strip
> using accelerator bit by bit in order to hold it in place. Really nice and
> quick. Works ok up to this point. And I use a double bastard (appropriate
> for me!) flat file to level out the surface.

> Now the reservations:

> 1) The accelerator and glue is just so smelly, I know I'm breathing some
> bad stuff into my lungs. I try to be quick and keep a window open and hold
> my breath (resp. also), but it still gets on my hands a bit etc, etc, and
> I smell for hours( the CA, the CA!!!!) or until I wash up (once a week or
> so!). I just don't think it's worth the ease and time saved and so I don't
> like to use it anymore for this type of construction.

> 2) My second reservation is about the future finish. I haven't glassed
> yet, but I fear that the accelerator overspray will discolor slightly the
> future adjacent finish. Hopefully I've sanded it out but I don't know yet.
> And the adjunct to this is that the CA fills the grain of the wood so well
> near the joint being glued, that there's maybe going to be some affect
> from it as well. If you're using thin CA, it's gotta be almost a
> certainty.

> So bottom line, I now use it sparingly only on bits where there's no other
> way and am mindful that it may cause future finish discrepancies.

> -mick