Hi! I've made a number of paddles,all using spruce,for it's lightness,strength,flexability,and flexibility,and non brittleness(cedar).I make the blades a double taper ,both wider and thinner toward the ends.I saw a very fine kerf in the ends(the long dimension),and place a doubled piece ofepoxy soaked 4 oz.glass in the kerf. I do hollow out the loom(handle) which is of rectangular x-section ,but nut all the way thru.I leave a 1/4" web in the center,so it acts as an I beam.I cover the hole witheither 3mm marine ply,epoxied in ,or I use a thin(1/8) piece of spruce.If worried about strength,layer 4 0z glass under the wood.I prefer sitka over any other.I bought enuf sitka from ML Condon ,for $150,to make 11 paddles,so it's only the first jolt that hurts.My paddles(86 1/2") weigh 35-38 0z.Ive never broken one ,and I have some more out there.also unbroken and unsplit.I finish the blades with polyurethane varnish ,thinned 50/50 with solvent for a sealer and first 2 coats,sand smooth with 220;straight varnish 2 more coats,and sand with 400 grit til all shine is gone(not slippery) The loom I prefer just oiled-will not slip,and will not raise blisters If you are careful to radius all changes of line,you can prevent stress risers(I know,wood supposedly doesnt get stress risers) They never fail to draw attention.
> Hi All, After reading all the response from Ross's posting on paddle
> making I'd like to conduct a poll. When paddlers have had there wood
> paddles break, where did they break? I am especially interested in
> Greenland style paddles. I am currently working on a new paddle and can't
> decide if I should cut my loom pieces back in half and hollow them or just
> make it a solid shaft. My last paddle made from cedar, redwood and pine,
> has a solid loom and weighes in at 2 lbs. 11 oz. If I do hollow it I'll
> use a router to do the job.