Thanks, Hank. I've noticed a difference in sandpaper brands. The only place I could find 80-grit was a hardware store where they only sold Makita 1/4-sheets. They were expensive and wore out quickly -- I was not at all impressed. But 60 or 100 from most places, Scotch brand I think, lasts longer. Unfortunately I'm stuck with a single-speeder, but I'll check around for the variable adapter...

Dean

> Hi Dean,

> I am usually chasing drips and fairing with a carbide bladed scraper after
> each coat while the resin is still green and easiest to work.

> After the weave is filled I let the epoxy come to a full cure so that the
> epoxy is good and hard before sanding. How long you wait before sanding
> depends on your epoxy and the ambient temperature - check the
> manufacture's instructions.

> I use a ROS [at a medium setting] and 80 or 100 grit paper. With a medium
> speed setting and well cured epoxy I can use the finer grit paper [which
> has more cutting edges] to level the surface and have no problem with the
> paper clogging. After the initial leveling I wet sand with 180 grit
> followed with 220 and 340 grit in preparation for varnishing.

> Most ROS fixed speed sanders are geared to sanding wood and are too fast
> for epoxy. Spidey mentioned an add-on speed control was available, might
> be a good thing to invest in if you don't have a variable speed sander.

> If you have a problem spot, don't concentrate on it too long. Move around
> to avoid heating up that area.

> Don't always assume that the coarsest paper will remove the most material.
> Different types/brands of paper cut differently. Try a couple grits and
> chose the one that works best with your equipment, epoxy and style [speed
> & pressure] of sanding. You will quickly see/feel/hear what works well
> and you will know right away when the paper becomes dull and needs to be
> replaced. Select the grit to suit material being sanded - generally, the
> finest paper that does not clog will do the best job.

> Hope this helps.

> Hank