You are going to end up sawing each 2" strip in half so it might be a good idea to figure out a strip design that will take a lot of 2' strips (on the deck maybe) and some 1/2" ones as well.It's hard to rip 2"x6" stock on a bandsaw. You might do that on a table saw. I can give you a few tips that worked well for me. I used a 4' piece of door molding as a fence - Any 4' straight edge will do - the secret is to have it veer away slightly from the blade after the cut. The gap should be exactly 1/4" at the cut edge of the blade but sending the stock ever so slightly across the cut of a thin blade seems to neutralize the blades tendency to wander.Use a thin.025 guage blade - I think I had 6 TPI.You can order from sawsonline.com. I set up two 2'x8' Luan Ply as a receiving table for the after cut. Used 2" clamps clamped to back of bandsaw to sit the ply on and made simple T for middle and end support. Really no need to get fancy this will work.I was cutting 1 1/2" cedar decking at 12' length also. You can use the same on the pre-cut side although I used the trunk of my old car.Going into the cut I had my son push from the end of the plank while I applied the pressure points. Right hand about 2 feet in front of the blade left hand about 1/2" behind it. Slide forward as you push against the fence. You have to be very positive (and careful - wear gloves) about this but I found it gave me a uniform cut. If you are going to run the strips through a planer, which I recommend, cut a sixteenth above the quarter.(5/16). As I say this works for me. If you want to get more formal you can build complete tables fore and aft and use a full length fence. Nick has an excellent "how-to" in his book. Good luck JJ.

: My western redwood is 12' x 2" x 6" I intend to cut my strips on a
: bansaw. I'm not much of a wood worker, and for the life of me I don't see
: how one person could do this safely let alone keep the strips stright.
: Will you guy's hilp me?