Ross,

I found the syringes that Pygmy supplied with my Tern kit to be very useful. I kept them clean and used them a bit on my stripper as well. I think they're $2 on Pygmy's site. Most s&g plans call for the wires to be pushed down into the corners, filleted and taped over, then trimmed flush on the exterior. It seems you've found Pygmy's technique of tacking the panels together with thickened epoxy then pulling the wires. If any are stubborn to pull out because they've been epoxied in, a few seconds of contact with a soldering iron helps soften the epoxy up to pull the wires.

Another tip Pygmy provided was a syringe-on-a-stick for gluing the deck to the hull. Tape your syringe on the end of a stick, put a couple of eye-screws along the side of the stick, and run a dowel thru them to work as a push-rod. It worked great, although you have to go by feel because you can't see the bead coming out of the tip.

Dean

: Dean,

: I'm new to this S&G thing and how well lauan will hold up without glass. I
: had intended to at least glass the hull in the cockpit area. I'm open to
: any recommendations from the group. This is primarily a fun "build a
: boat on the cheap" project, so I'll do whatever seems best. I don't
: particularly want to overbuild it, but I won't hesitate to put down some
: extra glass if it seems appropriate and/or I get a lot of suggestions that
: direction.

: Yes, I'll most likely put a finger divot or two around the hatch opening to
: lift the cover.

: Nice offer on the plots. I hope you don't get swamped.

: Ross