: One quick thought, how would it plane and sand? As careful as we all are,
: invariably drips happen, usually on the inside of the hull or deck as they
: are constructed. These are especially tough to eliminate on these concave
: surfaces with regular glues. I've used polyurethane construction glue in a
: minimally heated garage with great results. It's expensive, but relative
: to the entire kayak it isn't. It holds like hell, and planes/sands almost
: like wood. My $0.02.

Mark, I am just winging thoughts off the top of my head. Polyurethane glue is new to me and I will have to check into that. I do have 2 gal of rosin and hardner of semi-flexable polyurethane that I was going to build windmill blades with. Contact cement will clean up with lacquer thinner. My thinking was, as soon as you put on a strip you wipe off any drops or excess with the thinner while it wasn't fully cured. I don't think this would bleed into the beautiful wood and hurt its beauty, but that would have to be test tried. You would want good ventilation using the cement or thinner and it is flamible. I would do this in my garage or polebarn. For planeing and sanding,, when I built my sailboat mast it planed very easy. Sanding is tough if you are sanding on a gob of it because it is like sanding rubber. On concave surfaces I would use a convex cheap plane. I forget what they are called. Also a roundish scraper and sandpaper on a curved wood block.

John