: Hi Andreas;

: As I pointed out several times when asked by posters why I was glassing the
: exterior of the hull before even starting the deck, it is mandatory if you
: are using an external strongback. Further, it is the reason why I have
: strongly recommended firmly attaching the sheer strips to the forms at the
: very onset. The stripped panels are not going anywhere if the sheer strips
: are solidly affixed, if you strip with reasonable attention.

: As to width of the hull and/or deck when they are glassed on the outside
: only, they are verrrrry flexible. You could add or subtract inches to
: either with very little effort. It is only when you glass the interiors
: that things start to get very rigid. With an external strongback, glass
: the exteriors as built, then set the width of the hull appropriately with
: spacers, and glass the hull interior. I opted to glass the deck interior
: and tape it to the hull in the last stages of curing (no epoxy drips) so
: it fit perfectly to the already cured hull.

: I might point out that I did this during summer in Florida, when humidity ran
: from 70-95% . . . At no time did I see warping that prevented easy
: assembly, and trust me, I took liesurely weeks to get it done. Leave the
: forms in place and make sure the sheer strips are held firmly in place.

: You can view my glassing order in the link below.

: Hope this helps, Spidey

I believe I will have to fair my haul and deck together to make it look right. I have used your method of hot glueing the shears in place but they don't hold well on my severe bends because my boat is wide beamed and only 12 feet long. What I may do is counter sink screw the shears into place,(that makes holes)and then use a plug drill to make matching wood plugs to fill the holes when I take the screws out later. I haven't read of anyone using plugs. Any comments pease?

John