Actually, I did both ways. I tried to put the smaller piece on top first, but many times, it is more convenient for me just to lay the small one down (ie, as a tape to joint the edges between panels) first. But then I don't care as much how my boats look, nor I did as good a job as you furniture builders. I figure it's my boat and if I don't sand that hard to cut through the glassfibers, I should be OK. I built mine on the heavy side with plenty of over build; therefore, I don't worry about scraping on the beach or rocks.
Be happy and go kayaking.
As for food, I prefer to eat it then to throw it. Right?

: YES!

: NO!

: Once your second layer og glass below the waterline is wet-out glass your
: stems and apply 3-4 fillcoats to the whole hull. Then go on to strip you
: deck.

: DO NOT DO AS ROSS SUGGESTS!

: A second below the water layer of glass must be added over the full hull
: layer. This allows the edge of the second smaller layer to be feathered
: (sanded smooth) with the previous one. Whenever you will sand a surface
: the additional layer MUST be added on top. IF you put a smaller piece of
: glass under a larger layer of cloth a step down in the surface will be
: created at the edge of the partial layer. If you sand this edge you will
: cut through the full layer of cloth and destroy the integrity of the hull
: strength.

: The Only time you can put a partial layer under a full layer of cloth is when
: you will NOT sand the surface. I do this on the INSIDE of a hull where I
: want to add another layer of cloth for strength. I do not sand the cloth
: on the inside of my boat except for varnishing purposes.

: Glass your deck and fill the weave.

: Glass the insides of your deck and hull and seam them together.

: After you’ve added your exterior seams and stem reinforcement sand and
: feather edges with 80 grit. Watch carefully to prevent cutting into the
: cloth surface as you sand. The cloth will show up and a fine whiteish dot
: pattern as you start to cut the weave. STOP SANDING! Then I add two more
: coats of resin. This will fill the scratches of the 80 grit, fill the
: feathered exposed glass and leave a very smooth resin surface. You will be
: certain of not cutting into your cloth since you have new resin to sand
: and will not go deeper into the surface of the cloth. You can sand with
: 120 on the new resin. Then wet sand with 220 and you’re ready to varnish.

: This is all in your instruction book.

: PS, you can do it the way Ross suggests, just please leave a note in your
: Will saying you didn't follow my instructions

: Thanks

: Rob