I'm on the 2nd of 3 coats on the hull of my Cheasapeake 17. The "Tips from the shop" from CLC (you can find it on their web site - I'll try the link below as I'm sure Mark will fix it if I screw up) indicates that they have never used the the primer/sealer with no problems. I didn't use the sealer, but since my boat is still sitting on the saw horses - that doesn't help much.

As for the second question - the heat should have your epoxy fully cured within a few days at that temp.

Mark

> I'm done with all but the finish on my modified Cape Charles,
> and had planned on putting 2-3 coats of Interlux Brightsides on the
> whole boat. I've used their paints before, on similar projects, and
> been very satisfied with the results. I've even used an el cheapo
> polyurethane paint from Walmart over epoxy on a pirogue, and have
> done the same on the inside of this boat, with no funky peeling or
> adhesion problems. I've never used a primer over the epoxy in the
> past, but this morning was reading the brochure Interlux publishes
> to answer the question on Epiglass, and noticed that they reccomend
> using an Epoxy Sealer over Epiglass before painting with Brightsides
> or any topside paint. This is my first boat using West's epoxy product
> (slow hardener #406).

> First question: Do I need to worry now, just because I know there
> may be problems? Ignorance is bliss, after all...

> Second: What's the board's experience with total cure time (i.e.
> formation of blush)if using West's epoxy with the 406 slow hardener?
> This boat gets heated above 90 degrees every day, since I'm in South
> GA and we're in the middle of a heat wave. The inside of the hull
> seemed to be cured in 5 days, with 2 medium coats of wet sanded epoxy,
> rinsed with vinegar as a solvent, holding paint very well.

> Wynne Eden Americus, GA USA