Hi Violet

I'm back, albeit a bit late in the evening. Sorry, I had to go hunt down the ole polaroid. My daughter borrowed it.

Anyway, here's what I have. First of all, I will have to admit, I think you will find Bill's method easier or at least quicker.

My first move is to clamp a board across under the Chines as a measureing point for the depth of each "flat" that you want for the compound angled joints.

I draw a sketch like the one picured below and then put all my measurements on it being a 1/16th " generous so that you have some room to adjust.

Then, take all the measurements off the combination of stringers, chines and keelson. You will get two measurements off the Stringers as they are angled. One off the keelson and also get the overall length and the length from chines to stringers. The keelson will just be centered on your sketch. I use approximately a 1" wide area to sand for the "flats". That will give you room to work and the extra/waste wood can be sawn/sanded off later.

Using a bandsaw or jigsaw cut the forms to their rough shape making sure that you leave the "flats" a bit fat. Also, if using a jig saw remember that the blade curves outward on the underside on most curved areas so you want to watch for this.

When rough cut, start test fitting on the ends first to get a good snug fit. Then start watching your flats to see when they are getting close. You want to get them as close as possible, but, as Bill Price pointed out to me, epoxy makes a great filler and you don't have to be perfect on the joints.

Once I have them close I mark the waste wood and cut it out to save weight.

When attaching them to the frame, next to the forms, I use a spacer of about 1/8" so I won't glue the floors to the forms later on.

The sketch below shows how I take the measurements and jot them down on paper with a floor pictured to make sure I get the measurements right the first time.

Before gluing I take only one form off at a time and drill out the screw holes to accept 1/4" dowels and then apply epoxy to the hole and the two parts that will make contact.. This is, of course, Not mandatory. The screw will be just fine. Hope all this helps.

Sorry for the poor quality of these pictures. I have been taking better pictures with a good 135 mm camera, but, I'm building a Web-site and they are either still in the camera or over at my buddies housee waiting to be uploaded. I believe this will give you the idea, if you didn't already get it from Bill's site. Hope this helps!!

Rehd