Voilet,
I feel your pain. My first attempts trying to make a tag board stencil to fit into the stringers and then copying the stencil onto a piece of wood and making it fit was a complete failure. So I threw that system (along with a couple chunks of wood) out.
If ever I had a streak of genius (Okay, just dumb luck) it was that my building schedule was one week behind Bill’s. So Bill would hit a building crux. A big discussion would take place on BBS. Bill would have a wonderful solution. And I’d have a fix before the problem happened on my boat. Thanks Bill. Who ever said there’s nothing good about being second?
So here’s my system based on bill’s system:
I have a box of 500 tongue depressors that I got from Raka. So, I took a piece of cardboard (because it is thin. A thin piece of plywood would work better), and set it under the stringers. I cut off the round part on the end of 3 tongue depressors and butted each tongue depressor up against a stringer. I then taped the tongue depressors to the cardboard. I also placed a short piece of wood against the inside of the outer stringers and drew a line onto the cardboard with it. This gave me my basic template. Sorry if that didn’t make much sense. I also when laying the stencil out on the floor board compensated for the initial stringer thickness by laying a short stringer section down on the board.
Well anyway, now I‘ve got an excuse to buy a scanner cause this would be a lot easier to explain with a drawing.
Here are some hints that do make sense:
- There's no reason to scallop the undersides of the floorboards. Looks cool when you’re building, but no one will see them in the end product.
- Start with the middle floorboards and work your way toward the ends. The very end boards are difficult so this will give you lots of practice.
- Cut a little big. That way you can sand down to size. I used a 10” disk sander with coarse grit, but a smaller one would have worked just as well. All my compound angles at this stage were completed using a sander.
- Make a “V” shape on the top of your floorboards where the cockpit is. This will help drop the center of gravity in your boat. Mikes picture is a good example.
Sorry about the befuddled writing manner. Just remember, this is the most challenging part of the Walrus. The rest will be a breeze in comparison.
Roger
Messages In This Thread
- 2 dimensional compound angles for floors of kayak
Violet Cloutier -- 3/10/2001, 6:11 pm- very quick simple method
mike allen ---> -- 3/12/2001, 6:46 pm- another approach
mike allen ---> -- 3/13/2001, 2:11 pm- Re: another approach
Bill Price -- 3/13/2001, 3:01 pm
- Re: another approach
- Re: Center of Gravity *Pic*
Roger Nuffer -- 3/12/2001, 12:19 pm- Re: 2 dimensional compound angles for floors of ka *Pic*
Roger Nuffer -- 3/12/2001, 11:57 am- Re: 2 dimensional compound angles for floors of ka *Pic*
Roger Nuffer -- 3/12/2001, 4:25 am- Re: 2 dimensional compound angles for floors of ka *NM*
Violet Cloutier -- 3/14/2001, 1:37 am- Re: 2 dimensional compound angles for floors of ka
Bill Price -- 3/12/2001, 12:35 pm- Re: Cheddar VS Swiss
Roger Nuffer -- 3/12/2001, 12:51 pm- Re: Cheddar VS Swiss *Pic*
Bill Price -- 3/12/2001, 3:14 pm- Re: Cheddar VS Swiss
Roger Nuffer -- 3/12/2001, 6:44 pm
- Re: Cheddar VS Swiss
- Re: Cheddar VS Swiss *Pic*
- Re: 2 dimensional compound angles for floors of ka
- Re: 2 dimensional compound angles for floors of ka *Pic*
Mike Hanks -- 3/12/2001, 12:00 am- Re: 2 dimensional compound angles for floors of ka
Bill Price -- 3/11/2001, 4:55 pm- Re: floor construction...Alternative *Pic*
Rehd -- 3/11/2001, 3:07 am- Re: 2 dimensional compound angles for floors of ka
Rehd -- 3/10/2001, 6:37 pm- Re: 2 dimensional compound angles for floors of ka *NM*
Violet Cloutier -- 3/11/2001, 9:47 pm
- another approach
- very quick simple method