I made mine much the same as Scott below, but with 3"x4" rectangular pads instead of the 3" round. To align the footpegs in my Ches17LT, I hung them with strips of plumber's tape screwed into the sheer. This is metal tape with handy precut holes every 1/2". Then you can just apply pressure between the rails and off you go.

Chet

: Once more, into the breach: To avoid through-hull fittings and improve
: appearance on our Tern 14, I came up with the following variation on the
: T-nut-footpeg-pad concept. Here’s a set of instructions: 1. From ½-inch
: Baltic birch plywood (or similar—just don’t use solid wood), cut four
: 3-inch circles, using a hole saw.
: 2. Chamfer the edges at 45 degrees (I used a router table, which is quick,
: but even a rasp would do).
: 3. Counterbore about 3/16 inch for ¼-inch T-nuts on the back side of each
: pad. If necessary, drill out the center hole left by the hole saw, to
: accommodate the necks of the T-nuts.
: 4. Sand and epoxy saturate pads, taking care to fill edges and holes. Let
: cure overnight.
: 5. Redrill the centers if necessary, and install a T-nut in each pad. Don’t
: hammer these in: the bolts will pull them home—and create a perfect
: alignment in the process.
: 6. Drill out the mounting holes in the footpeg racks, if necessary, and bolt
: the racks alone (pegs off) to the pads with ¼-inch stainless steel machine
: screws (bolts). (Use flat-heads and countersink if you’ll want to be able
: to slide the pegs off for some reason. I used round-heads to act as
: retainers and keep the pegs from coming off. This was for a boy’s boat,
: after all.)
: 7. Rough-sand the mounting areas (which you marked previously, right?) inside
: the hull. Mix an ounce of epoxy with wood flour to create a nonsagging
: goop. Apply liberally to the backs of the pads.
: 8. Clamp the assemblies in position inside the hull, using one clamp per pad
: and centering the pressure directly on the bolt head. Use scrap wood on
: the outside of the hull to catch the opposing sides of the clamps. Apply
: enough pressure to hold everything steady, but don’t over-clamp; epoxy
: needs only contact pressure. Epoxy will squeeze out all around. Fillet the
: squeeze-out with a gloved finger and remove excess. Let cure. This
: procedure compensates for hull curvature and ensures that the racks and
: pads are exactly aligned—vital for final installation.
: 9. Unbolt the racks. Sand everything smooth, then reinstall the bolts in the
: pads. Cut fiberglass circles to fit over the pads and extend two or three
: inches beyond on all sides. Cut holes for the bolt heads. Rough sand and
: epoxy the fiberglass in place. Do it one side at a time with the boat on
: edge, and you won’t get runs. Take out the bolts, sand everything smooth
: if needed, bolt on the pegs and racks, and you’re done.
: --Scott Fitzgerrell