: I just ordered plans from the Canadian Museum of Civilization for the Aleut
: Baidarka collected by Margaret Lantis in 1934. It's the one that's in the
: Lowie Museum in Berkeley, CA.

: Has anyone out there built this particular boat? Or one very similar? How
: stable is it? If it's really tippy, what's involved in increasing the beam
: from its20.4" to say, 22" or so. I'm also considering
: lengthening the boat a bit, from it's designed 16'8" up to 17'6"
: or so. What do you all think?

......

Mark- I've built one exact replica and two more similar Aleut kayaks. For the 1934 lengthen the cockpit to thirty inches and tilt it up in front say 1 1/2", (this will raise the entire deck in front of the boat which is ok) , otherwise it is a shin barker and rather awkward to get into, unless you are under 5'5". Make the cockpit size and shape similar to a fiberglass kayak so that a standard spray skirt will fit.

The hull is a good rougher water hull, stability is a personal matter but to me it is a fairly stable hull for its width, it is not for fishing from or camera work.

The length is good - adding any length is not needed. Increasing the beam is okay 21.5" is enough , depends on your weight , if carrying gear , skill level etc.

I've never paddled an Arctic Tern and am curious about your expectations that an Aleut boat is " better for roughter " water , if possible paddle an Aleut boat to see how you like it. I rather doubt the 1934 Aleut boat would cruise faster than the Arctic Tern. My replica 1934 boat is similar to the fiberglass Nordkapp in cruising speed.

From comparing my Greenland kayaks to the Aleut boats I find the Aleut hull shape to be more bouyant and feels faster in rougher water. The Greenland hulls respond very predictably in the rougher stuff while the Aleut hull responds faster to both waves and the paddler. One is not " better than the other " - just different.