: Jim used a continuous lashing down each stringer. Although this looks great I
: felt that we were taking our chances with one of the strings eventually
: breaking. Jim went back through and tied every joint individually on the
: keel stringer and every third joint on the chine stringers. A little
: redundancy can pay off in the long run.

My understanding is that the running lashing is supposed to allow the boat to flex more, but I wasn't willing to take the chance that it would flex permanently into an undesireable shape.

: We didn't install a separate knee brace. Partly because the book is very
: confusing on this point. We never did quite figure out where it went.

You're right, it is confusing. He shows the Masik and knee brace both above the knee. Pictures from other sources show them on either side of the knee, which is what I did. After paddling the boat a bit, I think the knee brace is redundant and I'll probably leave it out of future boats. If durability of the masik is a concern, it could be made wider by gluing two pieces of 1"-1.5" stock together to get a 2"-3" wide piece. Greg Stamer mentioned that the boats in Greenland often have wide masiks.

: I'll post an image in the next couple of weeks on our chine stringer ends.

: The white oak is very sturdy and (I think) worth the small amount of extra
: weight.

That's how I felt about using ash.

: I created my own formula for rib placement. The books illustrations didn't
: match the text or the photos. Ill have to right out the formula one day.
: It worked really well and compensated for body placement and such. We
: ended up not using the last mortises on both ends. They just weren’t
: necessary. I filled those with epoxy.

I believe Cunningham's articles have better information about rib placement than the book does. Next boat...