> Pete, we're a dying breed. I too build with flat edge strips which I plane
> the bevels. I learned from Guilpatricks book as well as the pre-Newfound
> Schade instructions (when he didn't know what a router was) as well as
> others.

I decided to do it this way after talking to Nick and learning that all his older boats were done this way. I much prefer using a quiet hand tool to a power tool. There is something therapeutic about it.

> I found cutting cove and beads an enormous amount of work and a
> neusance to work on the tapered joints where you have to re-carve the cove
> and bead.

This is probably worse if you introduce a design (more fitting to do).

> I seems like you really have to commit to your wood choice and purchases
> with cove and bead since once your set up you might as well do it all at
> once. I'm fast with the blcck plane and get good tight joints. Besides I
> don't want to buy a second router and to do each side seperately as I once
> did is horrible as far as time and set-up.

I found that with a block plane I could only do about 1 strip an evening (like I said, I'm slow). I thought that with the cove and bead I would be able to do more, especially with the long strips around the sheer line. Maybe it would be best to use a combination of the two techniques?

I too only have 1 router and I'm not about to buy another noise maker. What do you think about cutting the cove and bead by hand using a molding plane? You could do each strip right before installing it. It would probably be quicker than trying to get the exact bevel using a block plane, and it would be quiet and peaceful (I really hate routers). The molding planes could also be used to reshape the cove and bead for fitting the tapered joints. Might have to buy some antique planes and regrind the blades, but thats not too bad.