: A lot depends on what size saw you can accommodate and how much you want to
: spend. Here are some general observations from owning a few saws and doing
: a lot of shopping around: - Stay away from cheap saws with cast iron
: frames. Every one I've owned (12, 14 and 18 inch) or examined has had the
: upper guide hole drilled slightly off - or perhaps a warped frame - that
: results in the upper guides not tracking parallel to the blade. That
: requires you to adjust the guides every time you raise or lower them,
: which is a pain in the butt, particularly with the crappy guides that come
: on many cheap saws. Nowadays, I ALWAYS check the upper guide tracking on
: any saw I consider buying.

: - The best new saws use welded steel frames. As a general rule, they're
: stronger, stiffer and more precise than cast iron frames. They're also
: showing up on reasonably priced saw and offer a better overall value. I
: would not buy a new saw with a cast iron frame, though I would consider
: restoring an older one if it was precisely aligned. I'm sure that some of
: the better brand cast-frame saws (Delta, Jet, Powermatic) are OK, but
: since there is no price advantage to buying cast frames, I can't see
: paying for old technology when there's something better available.

: - Although many 10" saws are basically toys, that's not always the case.
: If you're only going to use it for light duty work, a good 10" saw
: may do the trick for you. I recently picked up a 10" Craftsman (made
: by Rikon) with a welded steel frame, roller guides, 4 5/8" cutting
: depth and a generously-sized cast iron table for $120, on sale from $160
: (the Rikon-branded version has a smaller aluminum table and 3 3/8"
: cutting depth for $10 less). With a little tweaking during assembly, the
: upper guide tracks properly and everything runs smoothly. I bought because
: it's small and light enough to be portable for paddle making demos(cutting
: cedar) and boat outfitting clinics (cutting Minicel foam). I have no
: illusions about using it for anything more demanding and I have other saws
: for heavier work.

: - A GOOD 14" saw will handle most woodworking chores, provided it has
: enough horsepower. I consider 1hp to be the minimum and 1.5hp would be
: better. Saws in this size vary dramatically in quality, so be careful. My
: cheapo Bridgewood 14" saw is basically a piece of junk, but it only
: cost me $75 used, so I got more than I paid for.

: - A 16"-18" saw is a real workhorse that can handle anything, as
: long as it has at least 2hp. I have an 18" Enco 2hp saw that cuts
: through 8" thick oak splits just fine. I bought it for $300 (several
: years old but never used), put Carter guides on it and it works well for
: rough wood and metal cutting.

: - Rikon seems to offer the best bang for the buck these days and they
: apparently make many of the welded steel frame saws currently marketed by
: other brands.

: I'm done buying cheap band saws. Someday I will own a Laguna 16" or
: 18" saw. If you can swing the price, they are amazing tools.

I'm still hunting for a ship's saw (sorta like a band saw cept the C frame moves for tilt and the table stays level). When you're working with big timbers it's nice to not have to support the weight on a table that's not level.

Not exactly sure where I'd put it if I found one, but I'll figure that out when the time comes. These are antique saws, not seen one newer than the turn of the previous century.

Bill H.