Date: 1/1/2008, 7:53 am
I picked up the auxiliary fence use from Norm Abrams "New Yankee Workshop" on TV.
The standard supplied fence is used for shorter or more true wood like plywood where warping and twisting would not be a problem. The auxiliary fence is just great for ripping long wood where twisting and warps are always there. When ripping long wood, even the tiniest twist can jam the saw because it's compounded by the length. The short fence eliminates that. Plus you are ripping to the inside towards the fence over and over, whereas if you were ripping one board, you would take your smallest dimension off on the outside of the blade not on the inside.
I did drill my fence to install it. The small feather boards are store bought and come with an insert that fits into the slots on the table top. They have a split collar that expands when you tighten them and locks them in place.
http://www.mikestools.com/feather-boards_1061.aspx
The one that's $9 is what I have, but I think I paid less locally. You can make your own and many woodworking places sell the locking strip or collars for the saw groove. They make nice plastic ones too. I used to just clamp home made ones to my old saw but this is so convenient.
Messages In This Thread
- Re: Ideal table saw setup for cutting strip
Lloyd Peterson -- 12/31/2007, 8:43 pm- Auxiliary fence set-up
Jay Babna -- 1/1/2008, 7:53 am
- Auxiliary fence set-up