: Hi Rob,

: It's been a while (over a year?) since I fiberglassed and I'm going to be
: doing it again soon. In the post is the suggested coating schedule: glass
: + 2 fill coats, level sand with 60 grit, 2 more thin coats and then
: finishing sanding and varnish?

: I know that when I did my first boat that I entered into a never-ending loop
: of trying to sand the surface level but then hitting some low spots,
: adding resin, repeat at naseum.

: At the time I was thinking that in order to fit my apparent skill level I
: would add 4 fill coats to the glass layup, so that I could be assured of
: sanding level without going into the glass. I don't want to waste epoxy
: though because it's expensive and it would be nice to keep the weight of
: the boat down (not sure how much weight is in 2 thin coats of resin).

: Just curious as what you recommend these days, and if it's changed from your
: building manual...

: btw, I see in some posts above that one guy made a 30lb Shooting Star. What
: is your weight range in building these? I'll be using 3/16" wrc
: strips.

I roll on at least three fill coats over the wet-out glass, before rough
sanding with 60 grit.

Then roll on two more coats and sand with 120 then 220 and varnish.

My Shooting Stars come in around 30 pounds.

Many people add weight by pouring and spreading resin inside the hull.
A large batch of resin will set fast in the cloth and not allow excess
resin to be squeegeed out.

Small batches of warm resin, rolled on, then squeegeed off keep excess
resin out of the hull.

Rob