Jed,

I had exactly the same concern a couple of weeks ago when over lapping the glass from my deck over the shear and down onto the hull. I have a veneer strip along the sheer and to round the sheer I had to sand off my veneer, hence my reluctance to sand any more than I absolutely had to. I was using 4oz from Raka and sanded till the edge was equivilent to about 1/8 dowel. I cut the glass so I had a 2" overlap down the hull and had NO problem making the glass conform to the corner. I had a large supply of plastic wrap on hand in case the glass started to lift, Don & Lynette Welsby were kind enough to email me and let me know that this is what they used to hold the glass down when it started to lift on their boat, but I got lucky and didn't need it. Come to think of it I never did let them know how my glassing went like I promised, I'll have to do that.

If you using 6oz glass you will need a larger rounded area, but I was pleasantly surprised how well the 6oz I used on my hull conformed to the edge on the point of the bow. I think that the key is leave lots of overhang so you have a large area of wet out glass to hold the material conforming to the edge down.

Good luck, I found it to be much less intimidating than I expected.

Ken

: Part of the equation is what thickness of glass you are using, if 6 oz, I
: like to get it about the radius of a pencil for it to conform to the
: corner. 4 oz glass seems to be able to go around about 1/2 that or say the
: radius of an 1/8" dowel as long as you keep an eye on it and push
: down any bubbles if they try to form.

: This is based on the limited experience of building 2 boats, not on any major
: testing. You could do a test panel if you have scraps of plywood and a
: little time.