: 1. Stitch hull as normal using microballooned fillers and a sheer clamp made
: from ceiling moulding (the coved kind... can you imagine this

Since the CLC sheer clamp needs to be carved to fit the curvature of the deck, I suspect the ceiling moulding wouldn't work. Some parts would be carved too thin or there'd be gaps between the moulding (right angle) and deck. (Just a guess, there. Perhaps the NBXL has almost entirely 90* hull/deck angle?)

Maybe to accomplish the same effect (with more work, unfortunately) fit your shear clamps, plane/sand to correct curvature, then router/sand/gouge the cove inside?

I suspect you don't need to vaccuum bag to minimize epoxy/glass ratio. Check the archives for squeegie technique. Also put down a thin fill coat of epoxy before the glass to seal the wood & reduce further absorbtion when it's time to glass.

There's also been a fair amount of discussion about multiple light layers of 'glass being stronger for the weight compared to a single heavier layer. Again, check the archives.

If you're willing to reduce rigidity and strength, you can cut down on weight with a lighter fiberglass schedule. Minimal 'glass will still be strong enough while in the water. It's those small-area stress loads like dropping it on a rocky beach, banging against another boat during rescue, or doing a re-entry in rough water that are most likely to break something.

Only you can decide what is the right balance between minimal weight and battleship armor. But I suggest not reducing the 'glass schedule TOO much from design spec - CLC's older "standard" 'glass layup was pretty minimal. I guess they're now including deck glass with most kits, but even so it's not a really robust layup.

Val