: Greg Root recently asked about doing a lightweight-cloth layup and I've been
: meaning to post what I think the method could/should be and see what
: tips/criticisms it gets. I'd give the main generator of these ideas
: credit, but he no longer has a website to link to and so I can't give him
: the credit.

: Assumptions: The layup in question involves multiple layers of 3.2-oz.
: satin-weave cloth and epoxy. Given that this is tight-woven cloth, resin
: has a more difficult time penetrating the cloth, so the assumption is that
: epoxy should be laid on first, then the cloth rolled on, to work the epoxy
: in from the underside and reduce the amount of trapped air. Also, the
: method assumes that subsequent layers should be applied as soon as
: possible so that the subsequent epoxy bonds most strongly with the
: previous layer, and to speed up the lay-up process.

: 1) Seal Coat: Apply a skim of epoxy very lightly, as I really don't think
: much penetration is necessary -- just enough to seal it and provide grip
: for subsequent layers.

: 2) First Layer: Applied when the seal coat becomes stiffly tacky -- the point
: where it isn't too gooey, but that it is still 'dentable', or leaves
: fingerprings. (I know, you ain't supposed to touch it with your bare
: hands...:) Roll part of the fresh epoxy over the tacky epoxy. How much
: exactly I'm not yet sure -- probably about half or more of what's
: necessary to fill the weave, but not so much that it runs before you lay
: the cloth on. Have your cloth pre-rolled onto a section of pool noodle, as
: was recently suggested, or PVC pipe. Roll it down the keel or center of
: deck -- a friend may prove very helpful -- carefully squeegeeing and
: smoothing the cloth down as you go. Then go back for a more forceful
: sqeegeeing to force the cloth down as tight as it will go to the hard
: surface. Roll on the rest of the epoxy.

: 3) Subsequent Layers: As 2)

: 4a) Fill: If you plan on all your layers being structural, then apply 1 or 2
: rolled-on and squeegee'd fill coats to fill the weave.

: 4b) Sacrificial Layer (optional): On the hull exterior, to be done instead of
: 4a) Lay on one more layer of cloth and do not fill the weave. Instead,
: when you sand the boat prior to varnishing, just sand the cloth smooth. It
: will lose its structural strength, but will add abrasion resistance.
: Supposedly this method also makes that sanding job quicker, because less
: material needs to be removed -- it isn't as lumpy as a layer of 6-oz.
: that's been filled with 3 layers of epoxy. Downside: costlier than a thin
: fill coat.

: 5+) Sanding/varnishing/etc.

: For Greg: The layup recommended by the unnamed individual (kind of taboo,
: like talking about the dead) was posted on 7/26/99. Layup is given as
: inside glass/core/outside glass.

: http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/KBbbsOld/15516.shtml

: deck: 2@3.2 oz satin glass / .125" cedar or redwood / 1@3,2oz satin
: glass

: add a third layer of 3.2oz satin glass to the deck where your knees push when
: you brace

: hull: 5.0 or 4.8oz satin kevlar / .125" cedar, redwood, or Okoumee
: plywood strips / 4@3.2 oz satin glass

: 3@3.2 oz satin glass can be used instead of the kevlar. If you use kevlar
: lay it up very dry it will get wetter as time passes.

: Dean

Do some large test pieces say 24" X 36". I think you'll find it very difficult to smooth out glass on wet epoxy.

All the best,

Rob Macks
Laughing Loon CC&K
www.LaughingLoon.com