On my first kayak I ripped all of my strips without any special aids, blades or feather boards and they came out OK but a little rough. But I didn’t see where that mattered since it all had to be sanded anyway. This time I am going to do it like the pros here do and I have been picking up the ideas from Rob Mack’s instruction book ( saw fence and feather board) Paul Jacobson’s (side slot adjustable feather board and fence clearance for the strip, black inset), and the nail at the end of the insert to keep the strip separated so as not to pinch the blade. Also a real good buy on Freud’s Diablo Thin Kerf Blade I bought on E-Bay for less then half price that was recommended by someone on this board. I made my wood insert out of ¼" plywood sanded to thickness and glued ½" plywood to the underside for strength and to and to form a seating lip. The extra thickness allows for nailing the nail strip separator onto the end of the insert. The only thing I added on my own was the 3/8" threaded rod with the bottom end bent into a hook to lock onto the table extension ribs so I can move the table feather board to hold from 0 to a 12" wide board. Next I need to make some supports for the strips as they are being cut.

John