Here's a suggestion, and if anyone has already experimented with this please start a new thread. I'd be very interested to find out how your results came out.

I've been building a Silver on and off for about 3 years now. Just recently getting to actually laying out strips. I am going on the WAY CHEAP, method. Bought boards and ripped them myself and couldn't justify the cost of buying 18' boards just to get a few accent strips. I called Newfound and they didn't have any in stock, so I emailed West system to ask if they thought oil based stains would be a bad idea, seeing as how I was concerned that adhesion would be all but nullified with the oils from the carrier in the paints. They suggested I look into water based anniline dyes, and I'm happy to say I've had great results. I bought some online from W.D. lockwood and went at the sheer strips. You can work them just like water colors though the cedar soaks it really quickly. Check out my site I'm working on for examples of what the stains look like and how titebondII affects it.

http://www.eecs.umich.edu/~lukeling/Index.html

My only concerns now are:
A. Can I sand the thin coat of titebond off and get back to the original colors without having to stain again, thus ruining the crisp line I had to begin with.
B. Will the colors get more intense (like when they're first brushed/sprayed on) once the glass is on?

Well that's my .02 cents. If anyone else has used this method start another post. Good luck. Oh and for those purists out there. I completely agree, real accent wood looks a million times better, but when you're building your first kayak and like to play with materials, what the heck. Why not fool around with cheaper alternatives.

Looks like you can't enter more than one URL in your body. The link to lockwood is on my site in case you're interested.