: Ihave built a couple of kayaks with a shear clamp joining method.
: now I would like to try other designs without a shear clamp , but
: Iam a little intimadated by no shear clamp!!! Should I be ???
: tks Rick

HELL NO!!

The Sheer Clamp method of joining the deck and hull is much more complicated than just
glassing the joint.

Most people don't understand the reason for the sheer clamp method.

Ted Moores uses the sheer clamp on his kayaks. Ted also uses laminated stems.
Ted also uses only ONE layer of glass and NO GLASS over hull/deck joint or stems.

Ted does not want to use a layer of glass over these areas because the glass will very often
not be totally transparent and will display a silver fleck. If you didn't understand this you
must reread Ted's books carefully. If you add glass over the hull/deck joint and stems AND
used a sheer clamp and laminated stems you've missed the point of all this extra work.

Yes, I will grant you the sheer clamp and laminated stems have a visual appeal. Especially if
you like canoes, which these elements are vestiges of.

Glassing a hull/deck joint on a kayak is quite easy.

To fit the edges of the deck and hull to an invisible joint, bevel the inside edge with a plane
so only the very outside edges are in contact. Lay scrap strips across your hull to support the
deck during fitting. Start at one end and tape the deck and hull together with 3M clear packing
tape. This tape and brand is the best I've found for the task. The clear wide tape allows you to see
how the fit is going and you load extra clamping pressure into the tape by stretching it as you apply
it. Use the tape dispensers sold with the tape. I use a 10" strip every 8" or so. If you don't think this
stuff is strong throw a loop over a ceiling joist and hang from it. I usually to a test tape to make sure
everything goes together perfectly.

When I like the fit, I take it all off, then I mix some thickened epoxy and coat the edges of the stem
back for 12" and start taping for real. The other stem edges get coated with thickened epoxy before
closing the deck down.

Once the deck is taped in place, run tape over the joint to totally seal the outside seam, because unthinned
epoxy will be running on the inside of the joint and will leak out if the joint's not sealed.

At this point with the deck taped in place, I cut out my hatch openings and cut the final shape of my cockpit.
It's through these openings that I'll be glassing the internal joint.

Lay the kayak on it's side by clamping the stems to saw horses or some other stands. Tilt the kayak so an
imaginary line through the deck joint is at a one o'clock position and you are at three o'clock so it's easier
to lean into the deck openings and see both surfaces of the seam.

I lay one continuous 3" wide 6 0z. strip of glass seam tape into the joint DRY from stem to stem. Press it into the
joint so it straddles the joint.

Then mix 3 oz. of resin and reach in and up to the one stem and pour down the tape on the hull/deck joint.

Cut the handle off a 2" foam brush, staple a piece of scrap strip to one side and hot glue a 24' stick/handle to it
making yourself a long reaching brush and push the resin up to the stem to wet-out the seam tape. Once the resin
wets through the tape the glass will be held in place and you can brush the resin down the tape flattening any bubbles
or wrinkles. Then just work fresh resin to the other stem and gravity will help you all the way. I find 6 oz. of resin
wets-out one whole seam for me. Let it set up, then do the other side.

All the seams are easily reached through the hatch and cockpit openings

Take off the packing tape on the exterior and sand and glass the outside surface of the seam and you're done.

No gunnels, no screws and lighter in weight.

All the best,

Rob Macks
Laughing Loon CC&K
www.LaughingLoon.com