if you have the right setup cutting cove and bead is really not that hard. By right setup I mean a router table with good feather boards (finger boards?) holding the strips in place. Both Ted Moore's book and Nick Shade's book describe the setup well

With regards to difficulty when stripping the boat, it is conventional wisdom that using cove and bead is easier. That was my experience. I had some square edged pieces because of the pattern I used and planning a "rolling bevel" onto these pieces, so they mate with a minimal gap in the joint, can be challenging.

The preferred thickness of the wood you buy is to get 3/4 inch thick planks which you then rip into 1/4 wide strips. That is hard to find. In order to maximize their yield many lumberyards sell western red cedar boards for decking and saunas which are sold as 1 inch thick but are only 5/8 inch thick. Other posters have indicated that they have no trouble using these boards but you do need more strips because each strip is only 5/8 in wide not 3/4.

if you think through the steps carefully it is really not that hard to end up with a really successful project. Enjoy.

I'm preparing my materials gathering for my first project, and have a
: question about wood. It seems like the best way to save money is by buying
: lumber locally, rather than getting precut strips (from places like
: Newfound). My question is for the people who cut their own strips... do
: you also cut cove and beads (that's the term.. right?)? How many people
: out there just use the rectangular strips in their kayaks? It looks a lot
: easier (always a plus on the first boat) using the curved boards.

: One more question... how thick do you get your wood from lumber yards? 1/4
: inch? Thanks.