: You might be right... Just an opinion. I'm not an engineeer, but I think
: that the two types of joints have different forces on them (longitudal
: versus lateral?). I tried to think this through to the extreme to see if
: it make sense... Let's say there is virtually NO glue holding the stripper
: together (and no glass cloth)... literally a bundle of sticks held
: together only at bow and stern with a couple of bulkheads to hold the
: volume. It would stay together. Now if I cut four to six inch seams down
: the middle of the strips, I think it'd act a little different. On a Pygmy
: Coho, all 8 hull strips have the butt joints aligned in a continuous line
: from shear to shear. I were being pitched from trough to trough in rough
: seas, I think I'd appreciate some tape there. All speculation on my
: part,though. I'm still new at this.

Kieth,

I do understand what you are saying, but the epoxy that fills the joint, and wicks up into the end grain, is stronger than the wood. I think the bigger concern would be landing on a rock right at the joint, but I am not advocating removing the glass tape on the inside, which is where you will want the extra strength. If strength is still a concern, add more glass to the inside at the joint.

As I have said before, my next S&G will probably have spline joints, avoiding the whole problem. I have also used butt blocks (1/8" plywood) on the inside. I have not had flat spots develop from any of these methods.

I am not fond of the light areas at the taped joints. I built it fairly fast (6 weeks) in a basement, away from the windows. I believe the light areas are from not presanding before butt-joining the panels. The sanded plywood may absorb more epoxy causing a darker appearance over the rest of the hull leaving light spots at the tape.

Mike