: Hi Rob,
: Thanks for the reply, in retrospect, I very much understand why I am now
: having this problem. My issue is that both sides are now glassed. Are you
: suggesting that I grind out the inside coat or part of it and then soak
: it? I am guessing its more than just removing the glass coat, as the resin
: will have impregnated the wood. Is this a viable option?

: Borre

I'm sorry, I missed the fact that you've glassed the interior.

I went back and reread your post.

You say the hull has curled in more than an inch. How much more?

If it's near 1-1/2" I'd just spread it apart with sticks and tape
the deck and hull together. Angle sheet rock screws through a side
and out the tips of the sticks to make spikes on the ends of the sticks
so you can place them 3" below the sheerline to be able to glass the
interior seam without the sticks getting in your way.

With the spikes on the ends of the sticks, the sticks won't slip out of place.

If you're nearer to 2 + inches I'd sand a 4" wide section down the center 1/3
of the keel to bare wood, wet it, spread the hull per above, glass the hull/deck
interior seams, and finally glass a patch over the keel area.

The clamps suggested by others may indeed work. But they seem like a lot of work
to me to make, place, and use etc,

Four sticks with spike ends will do the job a lot faster.

For final alignment I use 2" wide clear 3M packing tape on my deck and hull.
This tape is extremely strong and also stretches to apply even more
clamping pressure than any other tape. I apply 12" lengths every 12"
perpendicular to the joint. I use putty knives to align the deck and hull edges
as I prepare to tape.

This is fast, strong and easy. I've use it dozens of times and it works great!

Best of luck!

Rob