Hey. I am about your size (shoe size is a bit larger, and I'm a good deal lighter, but same height and a slightly longer inseam). I built the stitch and glue version.

The stitch and glue version's foredeck is not the low version. I think it's pretty close to the normal deck. It's barely high enough for my size 11 to 11 1/2feet. By that, I mean that I cannot extend my legs straight out without curling back my toes. It doesn't much matter because I bend my knees so I have good contact with the cockpit, and my feet aren't completely vertical against the foot pedals. Still, my toes are very close to the ceiling. I can only wear my shoes that simulate bare feet (they are for barefoot running in areas where being barefoot is a bad idea. They work great for kayaking, so I bought a second pair) when I'm in the boat. None of my other shoes will fit. With your smaller feet, I can't imagine you having too many problems as long as the stripbuild cockpit is pretty much identical to the stitch and glue one.

The boat will probably sit alot better in the water with someone of your weight sitting in it. I weigh 165, and have to add weights to it.

You'll have a blast paddling it. It's a joy. Hopefully someone with much more experience in kayaks than I responds.

-David

: Hi, All, my first post to this great site. I have (nearly... ) decided to
: build a strip Night Heron. I would like to ask those who have paddled this
: kayak to give me some fitting feedback about the low/high front and rear
: decks which the plans allow for. My data are: 6'3" tall, 200 lbs,
: 36.5" inseam, 10 1/2 shoe size. The intended use is day trips on high
: elevation inland lakes and reservoirs (I'm in Utah). Comments welcome,
: thanks, Keith.