: I use the heat gun when the resin starts to thicken but I'm not satisfied
: with the amount of microbubbles that are left. It takes a fine touch and a
: hair drier would be safer. If there is an area that needs more attention I
: gently warm that area up in order to make the resin more runny and easier
: to squeegee. This will also make the resin set up faster, so you don't get
: many tries before you are done. The tight weave cloth does not contain
: much resin, so I'm not so much pushing resin around or removing excess
: resin, but pressing the bubbles out. On open weave cloth I rarely go
: through this process.

: A heat gun and resin can be used in some interesting ways. For a hard to
: reach joint that needs to be sealed, warm it up with the heat gun and then
: apply resin. The resin will suck right up as the area cools. Greenland
: paddles, at least those made from cedar can be reinforced at the tip by
: generous heating and applying resin. It will wick up the end grain at
: least 1/2 inch.

: Ted

as an adjunct to this, i noticed a new christmas present in the local hardware store - a black and decker variable heat gun (100 to 700 deg). sounds hot, or various degrees of warm if you wish.

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