: Please don't take this as confrontational. It's not. I just hope to learn how
: I might be able to do things better.

: I'll have the occasional drip of glue (Titebond) forced out of the B/C joint
: when joining. I'm good at cleaning things up as I go. There are areas
: where the excess glue, no matter how well I clean it off while still wet,
: behaves much like epoxy, saturating into surface of the cedar and creating
: a skin. It's simply not coming off without some cedar coming with it. I
: use a paint scraper for dried drips. On the interiors, and it's great fun
: hearing the snap of all those dried drips (kind alike popcorn) and how
: fast it cleans things up. But this thin skin of glue isn't coming with the
: scraper without uncontrolled tearing/gouging of the cedar. Tried using a
: sharp 1/2" wood chisel, but I can't control the depth of the
: cut/scrape with it like I can with the little plane.

: Can't help but believe others encounter this situation. Is there a better way
: to deal with it?

: Thanks,
: Todd

Don't worry about squeezeout. It ensures you don't have glue-starved joints. When you've got strips under tension you don't want the glue letting loose- you'll have to fill them later and and you risk pulling your strips out of fair.

I use a two-handled paint scraper on the outside as well, and one of the shmoo-shaped cabinet scrapers on the inside, and sometimes I use a really thick Sandvik scraper intended for flattening p-tex ski bases. Whatever kind of scraper you use, you have to keep them sharp. Some of the commercial paint scrapers have replaceable blades, and Wooden Boat had plans for making a wooden scraper handle sometime last year that uses the replaceable commercial blades that's really nice. (If you use a chisel, I like it to be a bit dull, and I use a cheap hardware store chisel)

Also- I don't use titebond for this, I use GF 2002 from Lee Valley. Somehow- I don't know how- the squeezeout doesn't adhere and pops right off. It doesn't work for everything, and it cures brown so I don't like it for light woods. Also, if you let it sit for a long time the magic is gone and it turns into a rock like other glues. Whatever glue you use, the best time to scrape is as soon as they're solid, but not cured all of the way. If you wipe up squeezout, be sure you use water. Otherwise it just smears on the surface and won't come off easily no matter what you do. It dries like a rock and oh what a mess! I wipe titebond with a wet sponge, and let the GF 2002 partially cure and scrape it off like they intend. If I can't hang around the shop until it reaches the right pick-off time I clean off GF 2002 with a wet sponge too.

I really hope this helps. Sorry to seem like a jerk in the original post.

m