: Hi Kudzu

: I know Bill has advocated glassing before removal, and you will ensure that
: the shape is maintained more easily by doing this.

: However, If you are using a sheerclamp for joinning the deck to the hull,
: (hardchine hull I am guessing you are) then you may want to try what I do.

: I carefully remove the deck from the stations and put it to one side.

: Then I make a temporary cradle for it, sand the inside and glass and epoxy
: the inside of the deck.

: While the fill coat on the inside of the deck is still chemically active I
: spread my epoxy on the sheerclamp and bulkheads, frames etc, and glue the
: deck down using brown packing tape. ( sticky side on the hull, but twisted
: so that the smooth side is touching the deck to prevent damage to the
: cedar while removing).

: Check next post to continue

: Et

Continued: The reason for glueing the deck on while the epoxy is still active is to avoid the need for keying.

Next sand deck and radius your edges

The reason for doing it this way now becomes apparent: By masking the hull below the sheer you can glass the deck and join the hull all in one operation.

NB by doing this you will only have to feather in the join at the hull below the sheer.

This can be made easier by moving your masking tape down a half inch or so for every fill coat you add to the deck. It creates a rough gradient for the sander to follow.

I cut my hatches and cockpit opening after all this is done. This depends on how you are going to create your risers and hatch lips though.

To get a detailed look at the process a la Etienne click on the link.

I hope this has given you some material to ponder.

Prepare everything in advance and do dry runs. Then make haste slowly.

All the best

Etienne