I've got bit similar rudder setup in my first kayaks, difference is that I have solid lower footrests which have separate hinged pieces that can be worked with toes. Doesn't work well with hard shoes. I also have boomerang shaped rudder blade to get the turning axis closer so the steering force is smaller.

Remember to keep the rig's weight down if you really plan to compete. And underwater fin for steering has less drag.

: Why, why, why, do people who have built an entire kayak think that pedals are
: not easier to make?

: http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/grantglazer/Kayak/HintsSandyRudderPedal.htm

: Probably what is not clear is that the front of the mounting bar goes into a
: slotted bit of wood glued to the fore bulkhead and the aft end is held by
: a large nylon bolt (toilet seat bolt) glued to the bottom of the kayak.

: The pedal platform is held from sliding along the bar by a length of 25 mm
: webbing and shown side on is a plastic cam-lock near the aft end of the
: bar. Strong enough? My partner has gone vertical in her boat, nose into
: the sand in a breaker - nothing moved. The webbing allows
: "micro-adjustment". Why do you want to adjust things if only you
: paddle the kayak? Do you always wear the same thickness soled shoes? I
: don't - bare feet, shoes etc depending on the weather and type of coast.

: Materials - wood plus plastic blocks for hinges, 3 mm SS welding rod hinge
: pins, webbing strap and an aluminium bar.

: E-mail me for more details if you need them.

: Alex