: Many comment that the most un-loved task in strip building is the glassing of
: the inside of the hull. Air bubbles, epoxy pooling...

: About the air bubbles; do they only appear if the outside has already been
: glassed? If one were to glass the outside last, would they appear there?

: Does applying a seal coat of epoxy (no glass) fix the air bubbles problem?
: One might think that bubbles in this seal coat could easily be sanded
: away?

: Epoxy pooling under the glass = gravity working against us? Could one avoid
: this by first only glassing a narrow path down the middle of the hull bow
: to stern or part ways, with a minimum of epoxy. And then turning the boat
: 90 degrees on first one and then the other side, glassing both sides
: separately?

: Could one thus trick gravity and get her to work for not against us?

: greetings,

: risto

: yes, i'll be coming to this task some time down the line...

If the shop temperature is gradually falling during the lay-up you won't get air bubbles (outgassing). So either start at the warmest time of the day and let the temperature naturally fall or heat the shop first then let it gradually cool. Unless you have huge swings in temperature this really isn't much of a problem.

Yes, doing the inside is trickier than the outside, it's not by a long shot impossible, just not quite as easy as the outside. Take your time and get the fabric set properly before it's wet out, then do the center first and work outwards. Doing the center first keeps the glass in place. I used a few spring clamps to hold the fabric in place along the gunwales, as you wet out the fabric heading towards them the fabric stays in place more easily and the clamps can be removed.

Bill H.