I don't know if what you envision is possible but I do know that in cold molding the strips are always applied diagonally to the keel line and at least 45°to each other except for the outer layer which can be applied to look like fore and aft planking.
Also, it looks like you are making things inordinately difficult for yourself.
As you can see I am not one to take the road less traveled.

: Hi all,

: I am 'almost' ready to start my strip Night Heron. Very exciting!

: I have a stock of 3.5mm WRC which I'll be using, and the original plan was to
: strip the boat and then sand very, very carefully so as to not take too
: much off (and use narrow strips to conform to the curves). Then use 200gsm
: (6oz) glass to provide some additonal stiffness.

: But, given I have enough strips for 3 kayaks plus change, and that the
: 'normal' strip thickness is 6mm, I was thinking it may be worth double
: planking it?

: I'd offset the second layer by 1/2 a strip to provide strength, and glue the
: 2 layers together. This would almost give a 'cold-moulded' effect for
: added thickness and strength. Then I'd have a 7mm thick hull which would
: allow a little more relaxed sanding. And I could probably use 130gsm (4oz)
: glass to compensate for the wood weight.

: It won't be (purposefully) hitting rocks or doing rough sea launches, so just
: needs to be strong enough to be safe.

: Any thoughts on double-planking the hull, or do I just go with the thinner
: strips and get another boat out of the wood pile?

: Thanks,
: Darren
: Melbourne, Australia