For my seat I used a two inch piece of mini-cell foam and made a custom fit.
This should be done outside as it will leave a carpet of grey dust all around. Just walking through this carpet will raise billows of foam dust. It covered a large area of my driveway and part of the lawn, which required compressed air to remove from the grass. Of course a dust mask is a must.
I double side taped it to my portable bench and by getting on the bench and sitting on the block I checked for fit. Then I would get down off the bench and grind some more. Repeat repeat repeat...........The whole project took two hours and has given me hundreds of hours of comfort.
Besides the custom fit I cut a groove in the back to be sure there would never be tail bone contact. The bottom of the cavity is 3/8 inch off the hull and the seat ends just short of the knees at the stock two inch height. This eliminates the dreaded dead legs syndrome.
Once the cavity was done I cut away the excess block and shaped the bottom to fit the hull. Carpet tape holds it in. This will make it easy to remove when I sell this kayak. The stock mounts are still there and the original "butt buster" will go back in.
Tools used: this stuff is hard to remove with any sense of urgency so I started with an auto body grinder then changed to a Makita grinder for more precise carving as I approached the desired dimension. I found Dragon Skin to be the best bet for getting the final fit just right and then smoothed out the finish with sandpaper.
There is nothing high tech here. Only patience and persistence are required. Try it; you'll like it.
~John
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John Roberts -- 3/3/2015, 8:17 pm
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Marc Upchurch -- 3/2/2015, 8:38 pm
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