I managed to find a local source for 100% pure Tung oil, so I guess that is what I'll be going with. It is actually cheaper than the Minwax believe it or not. Rick

: Minwax "Tung Oil Finish" is actually an oil/varnish blend (as are
: "Danish oil" products) with lots of thinner added. According to
: the MSDS for the product, it's 65% mineral spirits, so you're paying a lot
: of money for a product that's mainly "paint thinner". Without
: knowing the ratio of oil to varnish, it's difficult to predict what the
: final finish will be like. If it's at least 50% oil, it should produce a
: soft, satin finish like plain oil, but more durable. If it's mostly
: varnish, you'll end up with a harder finish that will get slippery with
: use. I would suggest testing it on a piece of scrap before committing to
: using it.

: Personally, I'd say you're better off to blend your own finish, so you know
: what you've got and you're not paying for thinner you don't need. You can
: buy pure tung oil at Woodcraft, Rockler, Lee Valley and other woodworking
: suppliers, but check local paint and hardware stores, too. I've found it
: in some very unexpected places. If you can't find pure tung oil, buy some
: boiled linseed oil and use that; the difference is not huge, especially if
: you're blending it with varnish.

: Speaking of varnish, natural varnish such as Epiphanes works well, but
: polyurethanes are fine, too (gloss varnish works well in blends, BTW). I
: prefer a 50:50 oil/varnish blend when using natural varnish, but I like a
: bit more oil in the blend with poly's (~60%), as they're somewhat harder
: than natural varnishes. Regardless, you don't need to thin it and there is
: no benefit to doing so.